Originally
Published in 2001 I’ve been getting lots of requests from
leatherwallers asking me how I build those good looking bows from boards,
capable of harvesting big game animals. Most of the bows I build run 45#-55#
in bow weight, and are capable of harvesting deer, turkey, black bear, wild
hog, Javelina etc. Others have built board bows up to 74# in draw weight,
heavy enough to hunt the largest of big game animals such as caribou, elk and
moose. I’ll try and explain the method I use, which has
worked well for me. I must mention that besides my “Brother Randy” many
leatherwallers have provided me with invaluable information and assistance in
my quest to build durable board bows, like Dean Torges, Tim Baker, Dale
Yessak, John Scifres and many others. A board is, in effect, a decrowned
stave, and is capable of being made into a bow just as good, just as
efficient as any stave bow. After building a few board bows, after honing
your rasping and tillering skills, you’ll want to tackle building a stave bow
from osage or hickory. The steps taught here will work equally well on your
stave bow. Are you ready? Let’s do it! SET UP
Step 1) BOARD SELECTION: I prefer to use FLAT RING or DOUBLE EDGE
RINGED boards to make my bows out of. Both of these types of boards should exhibit
grain lines that are straight from one end to the other on the big flat
surface of the board (which will be our bow’s back) AND down at least one
side of the board. I prefer hickory, but red oak, ash, maple and others will
make good bows too. I find better quality boards at stores where they cut
their own wood for area cabinetmakers such as Paxton Lumber, rather than at
regular hardware stores like Home Depot or Lowe's. The boards I look for are
generally 7 to 8 inches wide, 13/16” thick and 72” long. Step 2)
once home I set up a fence on the bandsaw and rip the board into strips 1 ¾”
wide, and trim them to 68” long. (These pieces should now measure 1 ¾” wide
by 68” long by 13/16” thick) Step 3)
cut one of the 1 ¾” boards into sections 12” long. Will make 5 pieces plus
some scrap. (Set aside the one short scrap piece). These will be glued on
later as handle sections. (These pieces should measure 1 ¾” wide by 12” long
by 13/16” thick) Step 4)
choose 1 side to be the belly of the bow and measure and mark both the length
and width centerlines on that side of the board. Do the same thing on 1 of
the short boards. Extend these lines down the sides/ends of the boards. All
lines drawn on the bow will be drawn on this (the belly) side of the bow.
TO GLUE ON
HANDLE SECTION
Step 5) from length centerline (the short line) measure 6” in
each direction and draw a line across board, or simply align centerlines of
the short board sitting on top of the long board and trace ends. Step 6)
using rasp, lightly rough up (cross hatch…like this #) belly side of board
between the 2 lines in step 5 and put on a thin coat of Tite Bond 2 and let
dry. Step 7) repeat
step 6 on the side of the short board that does not have centerlines marked
on it. Step 8) after
glue has dried on both surfaces; moderately reapply Tite Bond 2 to both
surfaces. Put those two surfaces together and apply C clamps, keeping all
centerlines aligned. Use 4 or 5 C clamps and tighten snugly. Do not over
tighten, this will cause glue starvation. Just firmly. *
Note: Be sure and put thin a wooden pad under feet of C clamps especially on
the surface that will be the back of the bow so as not to crush wood fibers.
Wipe off excess glue that is pushed out. Set aside for 24 hours. Bottle says
1 hour…don’t believe it…wait 24, then remove C clamps. At this point your handle section will be 1 ¾”
wide by 12 “ long by 1 5/8” thick. LAYING
OUT BOW
(Again, do this on belly side of
bow) First lay out your handle and fades. I use a 4 ½” long by 1” wide
handle, and 2” fades. To lay this out: from your length centerline
(the short line - which should be visible if you glued the correct side of
the boards together) measure 2 ¼” in each direction and draw a line across
handle board. (Extend these lines down the sides of board). This will give
you a 4 ½” long handle. Now, at each of those lines, measure out ½” in each
direction from your width centerline (the long line) and make a pencil mark.
Take your straight edge and connect the marks on each side of the width
centerline. This should now give you a box 4 ½” long by 1” wide, which
will be your handle. Next measure out 2” on each side of your handle box and
draw a line across board. (Extend these lines down the sides of board). Take
your straight edge and draw lines from the “corners “of your handle box to
the point where your fade lines meet the edge of the board. These will
be your fadeouts. Basically it will now look like a tube with a cheerleader’s
megaphone on each end. Put a big X in anything outside of handle box and
fades that will be cut off later. Step 10)
from each end of the long board measure up 15” on each edge (belly side) and
make a pencil mark Step 11)
from each end measure out ¼” from the width centerline (the long one) and put
a pencil mark (belly side) Step 12)
using your straight edge draw a line connecting the marks on each side of the
board creating 2 large triangles. Put a large X inside each of these
triangles. These will be cut off later to form our bow limb shape. The bow
should measure 1 ¾” wide (exclusive of handle area) up to 15 “ from each end,
then taper to ½” at tips. Check your measurements. LAYING
OUT BELLY TAPER
At this point there should be five lines extending down
both sides of the board. The centerline (which we don’t really need
anymore) and two more pairs of lines ... the lines which frame your handle,
and the lines Step 13)
at one end of board measure up 1/2” from the bows back and put a pencil mark.
Repeat at other end. Step 14) at
one end of board measure in 15”(mid limb) and put a pencil mark 5/8” from the
bows back. Repeat at other end. Step 15) at
fade out line on 1 side of board put a pencil mark ¾” from the bows back.
Repeat at other end. Steps 16)
with your straight edge connect the 3 pencil marks on each edge/end of the
board. This will give us a smooth belly taper going
from ¾” at the fades to 5/8” at mid limb to ½” at the tip. (There will still
be pretty much material to remove before you get down to actual limb
thickness, and after a few bows you may change those measurements to 5/8 at
fade, ½” at mid limb and 3/8” at tip, but better safe than sorry at this
point). Step 17)
From your ¾” mark at the fadeout line, (Step 15) take your straight edge and
draw a line up to the belly side edge of your handle box. This outlines your
dips. The dips are the section on the bow where the handle "dips“ down
to meet the limbs. It can't be a real abrupt drop off, because that would
make a weak point. For strength that area is basically triangulated. The wood
angles or dips from the belly side end of the handle section down to the
belly side of the limbs (at the fadeout line) on about a 45-degree
angle. CUTTING
OUT YOUR BOW
With your board laying on it’s
back you should be able to visualize the shape of your bow, and with it lying
on 1 side you should be able to visualize its profile. If you have a bandsaw: Step 18)
Lay bow on edge so that the belly taper lines are visible and slowly cut on
line all the way to the handle. This cut must be smooth and even. Try not to
wander in and out from the line. Turn around and repeat on the other side.
(Tim Baker holds the wood on an angle and cuts down to line on each side of
the wood creating a peak in center of limb, and then comes back and removes
the peak.) Because our wood is still “square” I cut it all at once which is a
recipe for disaster (BE WARNED) but I like doing it this way. Step 19)
Lay bow flat on its back and cut tapers at end of limbs. Move up and cut out
handle/fade area. Once again, cut up to the lines, and try not to wander in
and out. Cut slowly and smoothly. * NOTE
TILLERING
(WHERE THE RUBBER MEETS THE ROAD) Put one end of the bow on the floor and holding onto the
handle with one hand and the upper limb with the other hand, lean into it to
see if the limbs start to bend. This is called floor tillering. Step 20)
Using a rasp (a ferriers rasp or #50 Nicholson rasp works well here) reduce
belly thickness on each limb until the limbs start to bend when floor
tillering. Remember, keep taper smooth and even. *** This is very important.
*** This is a good time to start using your calipers to verify wood thickness
every 4” to 6” from limb tip. Step 21)
if you measure a thick spot, use your pencil to draw lines diagonally across
that area and rasp off the pencil lines and then re-measure. Example: if your
limb measures .540 (18” from limb tip), .560 (12” from limb tip), and
.520 (6” from limb tip). The .560 measurement is too thick and needs to be
marked and reduced to .530. Then your taper would read .540…>. 530…>.
520… for a smooth and even taper. Conversely if your middle measurement is
smaller than the ones on each side of it, then you have a low spot and must
leave that area alone and remove wood on each side of it until you get your
taper back in order. I write my measurements right on the belly with a pencil
and put little marks on the edge of the limb at 6, 12, 18, and 24” from the
limb tip so I don’t have to keep measuring those marks. Make sure both limbs
measure roughly equally at their corresponding stations. They don’t have to
be mirror images of each other, but you don’t want one significantly thicker
than the other one. Step 22)
once bow is bending pretty well at the floor tillering stage it’s time to
move to the tiller tree. The tiller tree I use is a tall 2X4 with a couple of
cupped ears screwed on to hold the bow. There is a small pulley screwed into
the 2x4 a couple inches up from the bottom with a rope that has a handle at
one end and a snap connection at the other end threaded through the pulley.
You can use a static tiller stick also but the tiller tree is better for
watching the wood actually working. You are also safely away from the bow on
a tiller tree should the bow decide to break. (I learned this lesson the hard
way, getting smacked in the head pretty severely by the limb tip of a cherry
stave bow that was way too dry.) A tiller stick is simply a board about 4
feet long with a cradle cut in one end to hold your bows handle, and a series
of notches cut in one edge every inch to hold string while you step back and
observe the bend of the limbs. Step 23)
set the bow in the ears of your tiller tree (belly down) or in your tiller
stick. Use a leather cup type bow stringer as your tillering string at this point,
fitting one cup on each limb tip of the bow. Snap the snap connection on in
the center of the bowstringer’s string. Walk back about 6 feet and pull on
the handle of your rope causing the limbs to bend. Don’t bend them very far,
until the limb tips bend maybe 3 or 4 inches, just enough to see if any parts
of the limb are not bending or look flat. If using a tiller stick pull
stringer down until limbs tips bend about 3 or 4 inches and put string in the
next closest notch. Stand the tiller stick against a wall and walk back a few
steps to observe. If you see a section that isn’t bending properly, mark it
with diagonal pencil lines. Remove bow from tiller tree or tiller stick, and
using a scraper, the edge of a pocket knife held at a 90 degree angle to the
limb surface, or very light rasping, remove those pencil marks. Step 24)
return bow to tiller tree, re-attach bow stringer and snap connection and
using rope & handle bend bow a few inches 20-30 times. You’ll want to do
this every time you remove wood. Even if you’re only removing slight amounts.
Observe limbs again for flat spots. Repeat step 24, as often as necessary,
until limbs are bending smoothly and in a nice, even arc. Slowly increase
length of draw (distance the limbs are bent) always keeping an eye on the
bending of the limbs. Anytime you see a section that looks flat or isn’t
working, mark with diagonal pencil lines and scrape there, removing the
pencil lines. Step 25)
once you get the limbs bending in a nice even arc and all of your limb measurements
indicate a smooth and even taper it’s time to cut some nock grooves or
fashion your pin nocks. For standard nock grooves: measure down ½” to ¾”
down on each side of one limb, and put a pencil mark. Using a chain saw file,
file some grooves on a 45-degree angle down towards the handle on the
edge/belly side of the bow. Not too deep at this point, just enough to hold
onto a bowstring. Try to ensure they are equidistant from the limb tip on
each side. Repeat on opposite limb. For a pin nock: measure out 1/8” on each side of
the limb width centerline (the long one-belly side) and put a pencil mark.
Measure down ½” down from limb tip on edge of limb and put a pencil line
across limb. With straight edge draw line from previous limb tip marks down
to this line. Cut or file off the little triangular edges leaving a
rectangular nub (or pin – hence the name pin nock) ¼” wide by ½” long. Repeat
on other end. Slightly round off edges on belly side, to ensure you don’t cut
your bowstring. Also slightly round shoulders of nocks so string will be
easier to slip on and off. Once nocks are cut into your bow, you can switch
to a conventional double looped bowstring. I usually start with a 66” string
and string the bow. If that string does not clear the handle I switch to a
65” string. At this point you only want a brace height of 3 or 4 inches. It’s
also at this point that I start measuring my draw weight. If you are looking
to make a (our example) 50 # bow, NEVER draw your bow past 50# no matter
where in the draw it hits that weight. Do not hold it at this weight any
longer than necessary. If it measures 50# @ 12”, you do not draw the bow
further than 12” without removing wood. As you remove wood, do so from both
limbs as evenly as you can, keeping an eye on the tiller looking for flat
spots or stiff spots. Measure with the calipers often. Every time you remove
wood be sure to exercise the bow (*see Step 24 above). You will find the
desired bow weight changing to longer draws as you remove wood. Go Slowly,
this is where patience pays big dividends. Get impatient here and your 50#
bow turns into a 30# bow for your kid (not entirely a bad thing, but not our
desired result). Tillering is a constant exercise in observing, measuring,
removing wood, exercising it and starting the process all over again.
Eventually you’ll find your bow measuring 50# at a point an inch or so
shorter than your desired draw length. From here on in, you only want to
remove minute’s amount of wood using a scraper, always keeping an eye on the
tiller. Step 25)
This is a controversial step but I believe in it. At this point, string the
bow to a brace height of 5 ½ inches by twisting up your bowstring, and set
the bow aside for several hours. You may find your bow weight drop by several
pounds at this point. Also the tiller may change. That’s why we stopped short
of our desired draw length. Now we have some leeway to straighten out the
tiller, without dropping below our target weight. Final sanding and shooting
in may lose another couple of pounds and the tiller may yet change. Step 26)
Take your bow outside and launch a couple of dozen arrows out of it. 1st at
half draw, then at ¾ draw then finally at full draw. You can just point your
bow at the ground a few feet in front of you. We’re not trying to hit
anything, just trying to get the limbs used to shooting arrows and letting
our wood relieve any final pressures. After shooting say 2 dozen arrows check
the tiller once again. If everything looks good it’s time to final shape our
handle and dips. Step 27)
using a rasp or 4 cornered file, shape handle to your liking and smooth out
& shape your fades and dips. Verify that your bowstring runs through the
center of the handle. Also very slightly round edges of your limbs both belly
and back. Step 28)
if you are satisfied with how your bow looks, how the handle feels, etc you
can sand it down with progressively finer sandpaper until it is very smooth.
You can stain the bow if you want or leave it its natural color. You can
install a leather shelf and strike plate, or shoot it off your knuckle. You
can leather wrap the handle, or leave it bare. That is up to you. Step 29)
Seal your bow to keep excess moisture out. I spray mine with 5 to 6 coats of
Helmsman clear satin spray urethane. Step 30)
install a 64” string and set the brace height at +- 6”, install some
silencers and a string nock point. Step 31)
enjoy your new bow. Step 32)
Go back to Step 1 and start another bow, either for yourself or for a
friend.. I highly recommend you pick up copies of Paul
Comstock’s “The Bent Stick”, all three editions of the “Traditional Bowyer’s
Bibles” as well as Dean Torges’s book “Hunting the Osage Bow”. The more you
read and learn about building bows, the more you’ll enjoy the sport. I hope these instructions were somewhat
understandable and that they helped you build your own wooden bow. Please, if
you get the opportunity, help someone else get started in building his or her
own bows. As the saying goes “Pass it on!”
See you in the woods,
Mickey Lotz aka The Ferret |